A Bear Story

The last time I visited the Great Smoky Mountain National Park, my husband and I observed some curious human behavior. We were traveling the loop in Cades Cove when we saw a crowd of people getting out of their cars. Some among them were closely approaching a black bear to take photographs. Alan looked at me uncomfortably and asked, “Does this remind you of anything?” I laughed and stuck my head out the sunroof and said to whomever would listen. “My husband followed a bear to take it’s picture and almost got mauled!” When the pronouncement received only minor attention, we drove on.

I’ve often wondered what possesses otherwise cautious city dwellers to stalk claw footed, spiked tooth, bears for nothing more than a 4×5 photo. My curiosity began the first time I ever came came to the Smoky Mountains National Park twenty years ago.

Black Bear in the GSMNPAlan and I were newlyweds, and he had come home early from work with the idea: It’s a beautiful day, lets go to the Smokies! It was our first time. By evening, we were glowing from the long wonderful drive up Hwy. 19, and we sat by a stream eating fried chicken, honey, and biscuits  We were deep in that “OOH, look at this”, and “AHH look at that” phase of our love affair with the Great Smokies.

All at once I remembered seeing something on TV about the dangers of feeding bears in national parks. Being a real scaredy-cat by nature, I asked Alan about it. “Oh, you’ll be lucky if you ever see a bear.” he said confidently. “They’re afraid of people.” Great! I thought. Aren’t animals more dangerous when they’re afraid?

A couple of minutes went by when I noticed a very black stump about 20 feet back in the forest and across the creek. As I looked closer, little eyes, and then a nose began to appear. My eyes widened. I took one look at Alan, and said sternly, “There’s a bear!” To his bewilderment, I got up and quickly walked some distance to the car.

Oh, no! The doors were locked! I turned around. Alan stood up for the first time, and looked at me in utter amazement. “What’s the matter?” he called.

“There’s a bear right accross the stream!” I yelled back. Alan stared at me for a moment, and then broke out laughing.

What kind of reaction is that? I wondered? Who was this nut I married, and was laughing himself silly? Hadn’t I warned him with all solemnity that danger lurked close by?

At last, Alan turned around and saw I was right. There was a bear. Rather than panic, as I had done, he simply picked up our food, walked back to the car and unlocked it. Thank goodness for that! We both got in. Safe at last!

While I was telling him how frightened I was, he was assuring me I was overreacting. He began fumbling for his camera and film. “What are you doing?” I asked.

“I’m going to get some pictures of the bear and her cub.” Alan said blithely.

“You’re what?” I looked across the stream to see the bear was indeed a mother with her cub. They were sniffing their way through the picnic area especially around the trash cans. “Are you nuts?” I asked Alan as he reached for the door handle. “You’re not leaving me out here!”

Alan got out of the car and began striding down the road toward the bears. Instantly, I envisioned myself as a young widow and quickly leaped from the car to protect my new husband. Exactly how I was going to do that was unclear. As we walked toward the roaming bears, I alternated between acting brave and warning of impending doom.

Meanwhile, Mama bear and her cub had attracted the attention of an older couple who were driving into the area. They stopped their car just as the bear began walking in our general direction. Impulsively, I climbed on top of the couple’s car, saying, “I hope you don’t mind!”

“No, not at all.” the old man said. Incredibly, he was somewhat amused. He turned his attention back to the bear, and my husband’s boudacious charge. The mother bear and cub disappeared into the edge of the forest. Alan held his forefinger in the air and said excitedly, “I’ll be just be a minute!” Then he too disappeared.

Very quickly, Alan saw his chance for the perfect picture! Excitedly, he framed the “perfect” scene: the cub with it’s paws on the side of a tree and looking right into the camera! Experiencing a bit of tourist nervana, Alan thought, How cooperative! In an instant his delusion of cooperation was shattered by a heart-stopping roar, and the sight of mama bear headed right for him! Alan froze, and mama bear stopped only a few feet from his stunned stare. Luckily, she was only bluffing in an effort to scare off the intruder. Mission accomplished! In shock, Alan retreated a safe distance.

Many naturalists claim the black bear is the strongest animal for its size in North America. Knowing this, and being, no doubt, discerning, you won’t repeat Alan’s mistake by chasing one down for a photo op. Hopefully you will be lucky enough and cautious enough to enjoy the park bears from a reasonable distance. Should one get too close, however, it is helful to know that bears have very poor eyesight and loud noises often scare them away. Also, it is helpful to know a campground bear is more likely to be dangerous because they can be enboldened by the desire for food and a history of having been fed by unsuspecting tourists.

Finally, if you are very unlucky indeed, and do run across the rare bear that shows a persistent interest in you, long-time hiking enthusiast, Charles Blair, suggests throwing rocks and, if all else fails, abandoning your food and climbing a tree.

Keep these things in mind and both you and the bears will survive your trip to the Great Smokies National Park!

Kermit Hunter

Kermit Hunter is a well known American playwright.  But, he is also known in the history of the Smokies due to the fact that he wrote Unto These Hills, the second longest running outdoor drama in the US and one of the highlights to any visit to Cherokee, NC.  He also wrote the outdoor drama, Horn in the West which is performed each season in Boone, NC.

kermit hunter1Kermit Hunter was born in West Virginia.  After a time in the US Army in World War II, he went on to manage the North Carolina Symphony.  Over time, working with various theatrical companies, Hunter went on to his graduate studies program in Dramatic Arts at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill.  While he was there several of his plays would be produced by the Carolina Playmaker’s.  At this same time, the city of Cherokee started to look for someone to write a dramatic interpretation of the Cherokee people to be performed at an outdoor site in Cherokee.

Hunter jumped on this project and began to transform the information and the vision of the Cherokee Historical Association into a script and then into a production.  Hunters draft won the submission contest and his most famous play, Unto These Hills was first performed in 1950.  Though the play has been changed over the years and the current version has little resemblance to the original Kermit Hunter play it is still his vision that put this outdoor drama on the map.  Hunter parlayed the success with Unto These Hills into scripting the play that would be performed by the Cherokee nation in Oklahoma until the mid-90s – The Trail of Tears.

Hunter’s other legacy is the play Horn in the West which is performed in Boone, NC during season each year.  This play tells the story of the people that founded the city of Boone and the Western north Carolina mountains.  Horn of the West features such American heroes as Daniel Boone and the story of a very dramatic and at times tragic time in American history.  This outdoor drama, while not as long running as Unto These Hills is still a part of the history and cultural scene in the Smokies.

In all, Kermit Hunter wrote more then 40 historical plays.  He is still known for his work in the Smokies and the people that are performing those works today in the same theaters and venues owe the tales the tell to Kermit Hunter.

Applewood Farmhouse Restaurant

Life is Short, Eat Fritters First!

The Applewood Farmhouse Restaurant (AFR) sticks in your memory after you have been there once and it is easy for it to become a place that you frequent a lot of you live here in the area.  For me, the Applewood Farmhouse will always be tied to the memories of working at the Louise Mandrell Theater.  The Applewood Farmhouse is located across the river from what used to be the Louise Mandrell Theater (now the Smoky Mountain Opry) and when I worked there, we ate at AFR a LOT!  The fritters became a staple part of all of our diets and of course, the food was eaten almost once a week at lunch, not to mention the number of tour groups that we sent to them over the years.  Add to that the fact that they were located right across the river and we had a restaurant that almost became our hang out.

Each and every meal that is served at the AFR is served with fritters.  They come to the table piping hot, served with butter to spread on them or to dip them in.  An apple fritter is a thing of beauty and when it comes with great food that they compliment to a ‘t,’ well you just can’t beat a fritter.  There were times at the theater when someone from Applewood staff would show up with a basket of fritters for us to munch on during the day.  That almost always guaranteed that we would end up across the river at lunch.

And the food they serve is as good as the fritters.  Their menu is full of southern comfort food.  Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served each and everyday throughout the week.  From fried chicken to chicken pot pie, from pork chops to beef liver, the menu is diverse and wonderful.  Full of the flavors of home and the tastes that you might have had at your grandmother’s house, the food takes you back in time.  The food becomes not only substance but a way to remember those days gone by.

In fact, just visiting the restaurant is a step through time.  It is housed in an old farmhouse, hence the name.  When you walk to your table you trod decades old boaords in the floor that have seen thousands of feet throughout the year.  This used to a be a farmhouse that was a stop on the way to Gatlinburg.  People in those forgotten times would stop at the farmhouse to spend the night, to get a bite to eat.  Now, for people visiting the area and for countless locals, this is a place to stop in for a bite to eat.  This is a place to spend a lunch hour or dinner after work.  This is a restaurant that is a first stop or that one special night out when you come to town for vacation in the Smokies.  The Applewood Farmhouse Restaurant is calling you back to another time, stop in for a visit.

Applewood Farmhouse Restaurant
240 Apple Valley Road
Sevierville, TN
865-428-1222

Dillsboro Chocolate Factory

When you are roaming through the streets of downtown Dillsboro, you are going to notice a smell in the air.  The smell of chocolate. If you follow the fragrance through the air you will eventually end up at the Dillsboro Chocolate Factory.  In this beautiful building, you will find a world filled with chocolate, candy and other goodies along with a great selection of gifts.  They are constantly making their own candies and confectioneries, that are served up fresh everyday and some of the best fudge that you will ever taste.

One of the most interesting things that the Dillsboro Chocolate Factory has to offer is the Shooter.  This is a chocolate toasting cup (yes, you read the correctly, the cup itself is chocolate), filled with a chocolate ganache that has been infused with a a touch of alcohol.  Now, this is literally just a dab of liquor as there is less then 3% alcohol in these wonderful creations.  They come in flavors ranging from apple martini to Irish creme so you will certainly be able to find a favorite.  If you are still having a hard time wrapping your head around the concept, imagine an open faced truffle.

dcf2Along with their shooters, they have tons of chocolate creations.  From truffles ti brio to bark to fudge, their are more varieties of chocolate in this shop then you will find in more stores twice its size.  You can find those items from the past that were favorites of yours as a child to new creations that are fresh from their research and development department.  For instance, they have an Aztec  “Spicy” Turtle.  This creation is just the right blend of pecans, caramel and dark chocolate with just a bit of spice to make it interesting.  Or maybe you are in the mood for something a little strange, like – Dark Peanut Butter Ritz Crackers.  These are honest to goodness Ritz crackers that have had a layer of peanut butter spread on them and then dipped in wonderful dark chocolate.  The slight bitter of the dark chocolate with the sweet of the peanut butter and the savory cracker is a treat that you will not believe.

Along with the chocolate madness, they have candy galore.  Jelly Bellies, jawbreakers, jujubees and much more, there is a flavor or style of candy for everybody in your group.  Whether you have that unusual person that loves licorice or the person that can’t turn down a bag of chocolate covered coffee beans, this is an awesome candy store that has a little bit of everything.  Almost all of it is homemade and made fresh on a daily basis.

Along with the the sweets they have a gift shop that you won’t believe featuring gifts that celebrate the Smokies and of course, gifts to warm the heart.  They are located right near downtown Dillsboro.  Roam the streets and stop in for some treats.  Sit down and enjoy the smells and sounds of a candy factory, take some fudge home to the neighbors and have a great time while you visit the North Carolina side of the Smokies.

Dillsboro Chocolate Factory
28 Church Street
Dillsboro, NC
828-631-0156

Harrisburg Covered Bridge

There has been a covered bridge in the Harrisburg Community of Sevier County since the mid 1800s.  The bridge was used by the locals to cross the East Prong of the Little Pigeon River and connected the two separate parts of the community.

Originally, the Harrisburg Covered Bridge was named the McNutts Bridge but in 1875, the bridge was washed away during a storm and was completely destroyed.  Later that same year, a Sevier County Court established a committee to oversee the construction of a replacement bridge.  $50 was raised privately and $25 was donated by the county.  The people of the Harrisburg community donated all of the lumber that was needed and the labor.  The people of Harrisburg built the bridge and made sure they would be able to get back and forth to town easily and that they would be able to further grow their part of the county.

While other covered bridges around the country were being torn down, the people of Sevier County kept the Harrisburg Covered Bridge up and going.  IN the 1950s, the bridge was renovated, but by the 1970s the bridge had fallen into disrepair and was nearing the end of its life.  At this point in the bridges history, the Great Smokies Chapter and the Daughters of the American Revolution raised the money to keep the bridge up and to make sure that it was placed on the National Register of Historic Places.

Today, you can still go visit the Harrisburg Bridge, take some pictures and drive through a bridge that has been around since 1875.  The bridge is 83 feet long, 14 feet wide and has 11-1/2 feet of clearance.  A true wonder of not only architecture but also of a people that wanted to keep their history alive.  Pencil the Harrisburg Covered Bridge into your next trip to the Smokies.  Drive a a little out of the way.  Head down Dolly Parton Parkway and follow it to Old State Highway 35.  Once you turn left on 35, follow the signs, the bridge is just a few miles down the road.  Get out and take some pictures and spend some time in real, living history.

Fort Loudon State Park

Fort Loudon Garrison DaysFort Loudon was built during the French and Indian War in hopes that it would act as a bridge between the people of South Carolina and the Cherokee.  Now, the fort is a state park and historic site that offers plenty of amenities to the people that visit the park throughout the year and it is also a place of living history where people from all over the country can come and learn about the French and Indian War and that time period in history.

Fort Loudon was built by the British Colony of South Carolina in 1756.  It was named for the Earl of Loudon and the people of South Carolina hoped that it would strengthen the ties between the Cherokee people and South Carolina during the French and Indian War.  Though that bond was beneficial to begin with the talks with the Cherokee broke down and on August 7, 1760, the fort fell.  The Cherokee razed the area to the ground and the site was forgotten for years.  In fact it was not until 1917 that a memorial marker was established in the place that was once the site of Fort Loudon.

Fort Loudon Garrison DaysIn modern times, you can visit a Fort Loudon that has been rebuilt to what it might have been like in its heyday.  You get to experience the time period and through living history you get to talk to the people that worked the fort.  The reenactors and volunteers make this an amazing visit for people of all ages.  They not only appear in the clothes that the people of the 18th century would have worn but they are conversant on the topic so f the day, showing crafts and skills that the people of the garrison and the communities around the fort would have possessed.  If you are really interested in that time period then you might want to plan your visit to the historic site for one of the Garrison Weekends that they have throughout the year.  On those weekends, they have crafters and vendors come in with 18th century materials and they also have a mock battle between the British from the fort and the French and Indians that would raid the fort sometimes on a daily basis.

Fort Loudon Garrison DaysOf course, this is also a state park so there is plenty to do here besides learn about the fort.  You can also play in the beautiful countryside that is East Tennessee.  Most of the Fort Loudon State Park is located on an island in Tellico Lake.  A boat dock, picnic areas and trails are only a few things that you will find to do.  The access to Tellico lake is one of the highlights and the fishing could not be better.  They even have a fishing pier that is fully handicapped accessible.

Get out in the open, spend some time outdoors.  Bring the kids to the fort and let them learn about history in a whole new way.  Explore the fort, do some hiking and get closer to history.  Experience Fort Loudon Historic State Park.

Lodge at Buckberry Creek Restaurant

Fine Dining in the Smokies

Recently, on an anniversary date with my wife, we decided to try something new: the restaurant at the Lodge at Buckberry Creek.  This establishment had been recommended to us by friends and they told us that it was the best dining experience in the Smokies. I have lived here since 1996 and I thought I had heard about all of the supposed ‘best dining’ experiences an I had not heard of this one before.  Little did I know that we were in for the best meal we had ever had as a couple.

I called the Lodge at Buckberry Creek because it had also been suggested that we get reservations and that we sit outside if at all possible.  I spoke to a very nice lady at their front desk that made the reservation for me and when I asked if we could sit outside, said that was no problem at all and told me everything was taken care of.  She also gave me directions to the lodge itself.  We left our house in Sevierville and headed to Gatlinburg (it is great to live so close to the Smokies).  We arrived at the lodge and parked near the lobby.  The entrance for the restaurant is through the lobby area, so if you arrive and are trying to figure out where to go, just head to the check in desk.  We were taken straight to our table on the deck outside and were treated to the best view you can imagine.

The deck off the back of the restaurant looks out over the park to Gatlinburg.  You can just barely see Gatlinburg from the deck and there are none of the garish lights or noise drifting in from town.  This was in October so it was a bit chilly and the fall colors were perfect.  The waitress, a very professional and courteous young lady got a fire going in the outside fireplace and in moments we were toasty warm.  The staff at the restaurant is amazing.  Every single person that we dealt with was wonder, well-informed with the menu and ready to help in any way that they can.  She gave us menus, explained the specials and took our orders.  Throughout the meal she was the perfect waitress:  always there when we needed her but unobtrusive.  Back to the menu and the food

The menu changes all the time.  It is based on what ingredients are fresh and what the chef feels like cooking that night.  This use of fresh seasonal ingredients make for an amazing experience in the mountains.  I ordered a veal porterhouse and my wife had the beef tenderloin.  The sides were paired with the entrée to bring out all the flavors of the food.  The chef sent out a special to all the tables (in this case a special sausage that he had crafted for the evening) and the artisan bread was out of this world.  Quite literally this is the best meal that we have had in the Smoky Mountains and though we keep looking, we have not found a place to top it yet.

Lodge at Buckberry Creek
961 Campbell Lead Road
Gatlinburg, TN
1-866-30-Lodge

History of Highlands, NC

The town of Highlands was founded in 1875 by two developers living in Kansas who, according to legend, took a map in hand and drew a line from New York to New Orleans. Then they drew another line from Chicago to Savannah. These lines, they predicted, would become major trade routes in the future, and where they crossed would some day be a great population center. Their logic wasn’t completely insane when one recognizes that we are just over 120 miles from Atlanta.

What evolved was a health and summer resort at more than 4,000 feet on the highest crest of the Western North Carolina plateau in the Southern Appalachian mountains. This paradisal settlement, the highest incorporated town east of the Rockies, provided common ground for both northern and southern pioneers a decade after the Civil war. By 1883, nearly 300 immigrants from the eastern states were calling Highlands home. In the early 1880’s the town contained 8 country stores specializing in groceries, hardware, and general merchandise, a post office, a hotel and boarding house for summer guests, a public library, four churches, and a first class school.

Very little changed until the late 1920’s, when the Cullasaja River was dammed, forming Lake Sequoyah, to provide hydroelectric power. A spectacularly scenic road to Franklin was carved into the rock walls of the Cullasaja Gorge. The muddy roads in and out of town were reinforced with crushed stone. By the time the Chamber of Commerce was established in 1931, the town?s population had increased to 500 with 2,500 to 3,000 summer guests. There were now 25 businesses.

Again, very little changed until the mid 1970’s, when the influx of multi-family homes and shopping centers spawned land use plans and zoning laws intended to protect Highlands‘ natural assets.The town’s population stands at slightly over 1,100 year round residents with 3,200 on the plateau.

Since its creation in 1875, the demographic mixture of Highlands has been remarkably unique. Founded by hardy pioneers from all over the nation, sober industrious tradesmen from the north, Scotch-Irish laborers and craftsmen from the surrounding mountains and valleys, and wealthy aristocratic planters and professionals from the south, the town has served as a cultural center for well-known artists, musicians, actors, authors, photographers, scholars, and scientists who have thrived in its natural setting.

The result is a town too cosmopolitan to be provincial, too broadly based to be singular in attitude and prospective, too enamored of its natural surroundings to be totally indifferent to them, and just isolated enough and small enough to be anxious about the benefits and setbacks of growth and development.

Baskins Creek Trail

Surely if you’re an avid hiker you’ve looked for those trails that everyone seems to skip over and has overgrown just enough to feel like you’re really in a remote wilderness. Trails like those still exist, a few in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The Baskins Creek Trail falls under that classification if only for its cryptic location.

The lovely 2.7 mile trail begins at the junction of the Trillium Gap Trail and ends in the middle of the Roaring Fork Motor Nature Trail – a very popular route for tourists coming to Smokies for the first time. It’s a wonder that the trail isn’t more traversed due to the number of popular places in the area like Grotto and Rainbow Falls.

As mentioned, the Baskins Creek trailhead is located along the Roaring Fork Motor Nature Trail. Most hikers will park along Cherokee Orchard Road and walk along the trail before coming to the trailhead.

Once on the trail trail, you’ll notice various red maples, oaks, Eastern hemlocks. In winter, you can catch glimpses of Mount LeConte along the trail. You’ll cross Falls Branch at exactly 1 mile into the hike by stepping stones before descending a short ways.

Hikers will be tempted at 1.4 miles to take the side trail leading to the base of Baskins Creek Falls. Be warned, this trail is  not maintained by the national park or any other entity and is steep and can be extremely slippery for even the best of outdoorsmen.

You’ll cross Baskins Creek again at mile 1.6 after walking through a rhododendron tunnel then start a climb up a gulch where you can hear the Roaring Fork on certain days. The trail ends at the Bales Cemetery and the junction of the Roaring Fork Motor Nature Trail.

Ober Gatlinburg Set to Open Friday for Snow Tubing

*Ober Gatlinburg is scheduled to open their snow tubing park Friday, November 16th, 2012.

The idea that good skiing can only be found in the northeast or out west has been debunked by places like Ober Gatlinburg in the recent years. With the number of great changes every year to the current resort, things look to be getting even better at Ober. And that starts this year with an even earlier opening date thanks to some new snow making equipment.

Right now, officials with Ober Gatlinburg plan on opening the snow tubing area this Friday. Their new Snow Magic system has enabled the Gatlinburg resort to begin snow making even earlier, and in less than adequate temperatures.

When you think of the Ober Gatlinburg Ski Resort, you think winter sports from skiing to snowboarding and everything in between. Here, you can experience all your favorite winter sports on 8 different trails, varying from beginner to the advanced. Experience the breathtaking views and vistas of the Smoky Mountains on your way down the slopes. You’ll notice the majesty of the Smokies’ snowy peaks, white forests, and the lights of Gatlinburg. For the novice skier, or if this is your first time skiing or snowboarding, take a lesson at Ober’s Smoky Mountain Snow Sport School, located at the resort. You can take lessons as an individual or with a group. It’s a great way for families, friends, or large groups to learn how to ski.

Ober’s gear store allows people who don’t own skis or boards to rent everything they need before hitting the slopes. They offer ski gear in a variety of sizes and styles for kids and adults.

If you’re in town during the spring, summer, or fall, don’t think that Ober just shuts everything down because the temperature is a bit warmer. Ober Gatlinburg’s amusement park features some great warm weather attractions like the Alpine Slide, an indoor ice skating rink, and a scenic chairlift that takes visitors on picturesque rides up Mount Harrison. Guests will also find a waterslide, arcade, pirate ship, bungee jumping, bumper cars, Velcro jump wall, shooting range, and mini golf course at Ober. Ober Gatlinburg literally has something new around every corner. You could visit twice and still find new activities you didn’t get to try the first time.

Winter sports at Ober Gatlinburg Ski Resort is a must on everyone’s Smokies “To Do” list. Ski or snowboard the slopes, ride up and down the mountain, or just take in the spectacular views of Gatlinburg and the Smokies.