Author: smokies guide

Sugarlands

Sugarlands, of course, is the home of the Sugarlands Visitor Center and the headquarters of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.  Sugarlands is also an area of the National Park that stretches from the Grapeyard Ridge and the Roaring Fork area to Sugarland Mountain.  The road out of Gatlinburg runs straight through Sugarlands and is one of the most used access points to the GSMNP.

The Native Americans, particularly the Cherokee hunted the land that came to be known as Sugarlands for thousands of years before the first European Settlers go to the area.  The settlers that came to East Tennessee found a valley in Sugarlands that was good for growing crops, protected them from the harshest of the winter storms and provided them with  natural insulation from outsiders.  The Sugarlanders were isolationary and stayed to themselves.  Their communities flourished and though life continued around them (the Civil War and other national occurrences) the people of Sugarlands continued along their path.

With the coming of the logging industry, the people of the Sugarland area began to have visitors to their valley.  As the rail lines brought in summer vacationers, the Sugarlanders had new people to sale to their goods to.  They embraced the people of other areas that wanted a mountain spot to vacation.  In fact many Sugarlanders took on legendary status.  Mountain guides like Wiley Oakley helped to map the trails that would become the trails in the Smokies.  Oakley guided visitors on a trail through an area called Scratch Britches that would become known as Rainbow Falls Trail.

When Congress passed the establishment of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, the people of Sugarlands were some of the first to be displaced be the coming change.  Most of them took the buyout offered by the Park Service but some of the Sugarlanders had to be forced out of the area.  After all of the residents had been removed from the area, the Park Service the CCC began the task of building the structures that we have all come to know and love in the GSMNP.

Modern Sugarlands offers everything a visitor to the Smokies could want and more.  Reservations for campsites, a museum of the wildlife in the Smokies, a video about the foundation of the park, trails and of course, contact with the guardians of the National Park – the Park Rangers.  Ask them questions, get help planning your hike for the day or even let your little ones participate in the Junior Ranger Program.  Sugarlands was a place that visitors of old went to learn about the mountains, some things have not changed.

Rainbow Falls Trail

Summary: The Rainbow Falls Trail is fairly challenging if completed all the way to Mt LeConte. Allow an hour and a half to Rainbow Falls and four hours to Mt LeConte. Hikers will gain nearly 4,000 feet in elevation by the time they get to Mt. LeConte.

Point of Departure: Cherokee Orchard Road – Turn at light #8 in Gatlinburg and follow the Airport Road 1 mile out of Gatlinburg into the Great Smokies National Park. The name will change from Airport Road to Cherokee Orchard Road. About 2.5 miles after entering the Park, Cherokee Orchard Road approaches the Rainbow Falls parking area. You will find the trail head at one edge of the parking area.

Features of Interest: Your first reward comes at the 2.8 mile point when you arrive at Rainbow Falls. At the 6.6 mile point you will come upon an Alum Cave Trail junction which leads left 0.1 mile to the LeConte Lodge (the only lodging to be found within the Park), which is 6.7 miles from where you began. Overnights at LeConte Lodge require a reservation, which should be obtained weeks or even months in advance by calling (865) 429-5704.

A short jaunt to Rainbow Falls and a challenging climb on to Mt. LeConte await the hiker on The Rainbow Falls Trail. The Rainbow Falls Trail gains nearly four thousand feet in 6.7 miles, making it one of the more uniquely challenging climbs in the Smokies. The original trail is arguably the oldest route to Mount LeConte, and followed the east side of LeConte Creek. At that time, LeConte Creek was known as Mill Creek– because of the large number of grist mills that operated along the creek.

The Rainbow Falls Trail begins along the stream, and 1 mile above Cherokee Orchard, it twists away from the stream onto an exposed ridge. Shortly it returns creekside, the hiker crossing by way of a footlog, and then begins a series of climbing switchbacks.

After you cross the stream a second time, you can spot the high cliff from which the falls descend. The cliff is surrounded by a thicket of rhododendron and a growth of hemlocks.

LeConte Creek is fairly narrow at this point, and forces the water outward into a heavy mist before settling eighty-two feet below. Sunlight reflecting off this mist creates the rainbow effect which gives the falls their name.

When you cross the LeConte Creek for the third time, Rainbow Falls comes into complete view. Navigation over the rocks allows a closer approach–and a better view–of the falls. For the hardier hiker, the trail continues beyond Rainbow Falls, and becomes steeper, before changing again to a more easy course on the way to the LeConte terminus. The hiker should remember–as the trail moves up the mountain and into the cooler, moist upper reaches of LeConte–that temperatures can change considerably and unprepared hikers might find themselves in surprisingly cool temperatures–especially if it’s raining. With the change in climate, plant life changes as well. Balsam, spruce, and mountain ash dominate the trees, and crimson bee balms, asters, Indian Pipes, and monkshoods are also evident.

Note: If you have access to the internet prior to departure, you can check the general weather conditions and temperatures at different elevations. Use this only as a guideline, however, because conditions can change abruptly in the Smokies, which average 90 inches of rain each year.A short distance from the summit of Mount LeConte the Bull Head and Alum Cave Bluff trails intersect the Rainbow Falls Trail. At this point, you will be only a few hundred yards from the top of Mt. LeConte and LeConte Lodge.

Gatlinburg, TN

Gatlinburg, TN is a typical little mountain town but what they have to offer visitors to the area is anything but ‘little.’  With shopping lining both sides of the Parkway, attractions at every corner, you can visit Gatlinburg and never leave the mountain.  Nestled right against the Smoky Mountains and the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, Gatlinburg beauty only slightly surpasses its adventure.

Though the Cherokee hunted in the flats around the present day city of Gatlinburg, the first European settlers to the area came due to South Carolina native William Ogle.  Though Ogle never lived in the area for very long his relatives did end up coming to the area and settling in the Cartertown area of Gatlinburg.  1856 saw the first post office being formed in the Radford Gatlin general store.  Though the people of the area didn’t care for Gatlin they liked his name and kept it after they ran Gatlin out of town.

The logging industry in the late 1800s kept the town going but the real boon for the town was when the Great Smoky Mountains National Park was founded.  The National Park being located on the boundary of the Gatlinburg brings millions of visitors through the town each year, this has made Gatlinburg a central location for people visiting the Smokies.

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  • Lodge at Buckberry Creek Restaurant - Fine Dining in the Smokies Recently, on an anniversary date with my wife, we decided to try something new: the restaurant at the Lodge at Buckberry Creek.  This establishment had been recommended to us by friends and they told us that it was the best dining experience in the Smokies. I have lived here since … Continue reading "Lodge at Buckberry Creek Restaurant"
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University of Tennessee Football

Go Vols!

Looking for some fun in the Smokies on a football weekend.  Plan your visit for a home game weekend and get those tickets early.  plan to sit with over 100,000 of your closest friends and cheer on the UT Volunteers (or their opposition) at one of the best football venues in one of the best football towns in the SEC.

Now, UT and other college football communities get a bad reputation for their over-zealousness but if you are coming through town on a Friday afternoon before a home game, there is something that you are going to notice:  lots of ORANGE.  The fan base in and around Knoxville is incredible.  They support their time and the town gets decked with orange from one end to the other.  Bank tellers, fast food restaurants and anything that doesn’t move gets festooned with orange.  As the approach of kickoff draws nigh, the town empties as people gather at the stadium or at their homes to watch the Vols take to the field.

The stadium itself is something to behold.  Neyland Stadium is named after General Robert Neyland,  Neyland was former athletic director and coach of the Vols.  The stadium was founded in 1921 and it is s till on that same location, though it has grown considerably over time.  In 1962, the stadium was renamed Neyland Stadium and it is currently one of the largest college football stadiums in the country.  Attendance has been tracked since 1964 and since that point, it has averaged 68,925 fans per game.  The largest crowd to ever fill the stadium was on September 18,2004 when 109,061 people arrived to watch the Vols beat Florida, 30-28.  Right now, Neyland Stadium is the third largest college stadium behind Michigan Stadium and Beaver Stadium.  Sitting in this large outdoor venue is one of the most exciting ways to take in a college football game.

Tips for going to UT Home game

  • Come Early and Expect to Leave Late
  • No Outside food, snacks or drinks
  • No alcoholic Beverages.
  • Gates open 2 hours before kickoff and not before
  • Bring your RV and tailgate before the game
  • All attendees must have a ticket regardless of age to enter the stadium
  • Parking is free in downtown Knoxville but your are going to have to walk or you are going to have to ride Knoxville Area Transit (KAT) buses to get tot he stadium

Prohibited items

  • Cans, bottles or coolers
  • Radios without headsets
  • Open Umbrellas
  • Video Cameras
  • Stadium seats with arms
  • Large bags of any kind
  • Weapons of any kind (this includes pocket knives)
  • Artificial noisemakers
  • Smoking
  • Strollers

Next time you come to the Smokies during football season why don’t you plan to go to a home game at Neyland stadium?  Sit in one of the biggest football stadiums in the country, watch a great team and experience the fun of SEC football in the Smoky Mountains.

Franklin Gem and Mineral Museum

If you are interested in the lapidary arts you might want to take a ride into Franklin, NC and visit the Franklin Gem and Mineral Museum.  Due to the history of the area, it is no wonder that a museum has been established to show off the gems and the mining industry that brought Franklin to life.  Inside you are going to find not only information on the history of the area but examples of the gems that they found in the mountains.  Of course, the fact that the museum is housed in the old jail house means that you are walking into history as you learn about history.

Drive around downtown Franklin and you are going to see typical, small town USA downtown.  This downtown has been revitalized in the past with the influx of tourism dollars into the area and especially into Franklin itself.  Look up and down the narrow streets, take in the beauty of what Franklin looked like at the turn of the century.  On Phillips Street you will see the old jail house.  If you find the jailhouse, you have found the Franklin Gem and Mineral Museum.  They have been in this location since 1974 and they are not only celebrating their love of all things gem mining but they are also keeping up the Old Macon County Jail.

Franklin Gem & Mineral MuseumThe Franklin Gem and Mineral Society started in 1971.  The rockhounds of the area had a close kinship from many hours spent digging for gems in the mountains.  It was no wonder that informal get-togethers turned into monthly meetings.  In fact, by 1972 there were almost 175 people on the roles of the club.  In 1972 they also opened the museum.  This museum was a growing collection of the lapidary dreams of the rockhounds of Macon County.  With the move into the jailhouse, they were able to expand the collection and improve on the exhibits.  The club stills hosts this free museum and it is one of the highlights of any visit to downtown Franklin, NC.

Stepping though the door of the Franklin Gem and Mineral Museum brings into the world of rocks, gems and fossils.  From the North Carolina Room that focuses on those minerals and rocks pulled from the local mountains.  You can also cool those minerals and gems pulled from around the world in the World Room.  There are also rooms dedicated to fossils, artifacts and much more.  Learn about the industry that caused the founding of Franklin.  The Franklin Gem and Mineral Museum celebrates that industry it is a great way to spend the afternoon.

Franklin Gem and Mineral Museum
25 Phillips St
Franklin, NC
828-369-7831

Paula Deen’s Kitchen

Paula Deen’s Kitchen in Harrah’s Cherokee Casino closed in 2013. Information below is maintained for historical purposes.

Cherokee stepped up its reputation in the eyes of foodies in 2011 by adding a restaurant named after Food Network Star: Paula Deen.  Since that time, Paula Deen’s Kitchen in Harrah’s Cherokee Casino has become THE place to eat when you visit Cherokee, NC.  Her signature take on traditional southern food styles is causing ripples in the culinary minds of tourists and locals alike.

The food is the main reason that you visit a restaurant, so we will start with the menu.  Deen chose dishes that fit every taste when she picked the menu for this restaurant.  From lowland favorites like Shrimp and Grits to seafood feasts from the boiler, the variety will fit every taste.  The portion sizes are not small, so make sure that you bring an appetite.  For instance, this restaurant produces one of the largest and best tasting chicken pot pies that you will ever have.  The pot pie is topped off by a huge puff pastry that, when soaked in the juice from the chicken pot pie, is amazing. The boiler pots of seafood are also huge and prepared to perfection.

Paula DeenThe food is paired amazingly with décor and the atmosphere.  The way the restaurant has been designed, it is quite and you feel as if you are the only people seated in the huge dining room.  And if the décor and the atmosphere is amazing, you will be floored by the service. Polite, pleasant and professional are the catchwords for the day.  Firstly, they allow you to make reservations.  As one of the hot spots in the Smokies, the tables fill up fast.  Secondly, they are nice.  The wait staff treats you like you are the only person in the restaurant and your experience is their only concern.

Of course, the fact that it is located in the home of gaming in the Smokies doesn’t hurt either.  Harrah’s is an ever expanding project in Cherokee, NC.  They have added lots of shopping, lots of dining experiences and of course with the addition of Paula Deen’s Kitchen they have added an upscale dining establishment that is still rising like a shooting star in the culinary scene of Western North Carolina.  Located in the casino itself, you are mere feet from a great meal when you are playing cards or trying your hand at one of the many video gaming machines.

Paul a Deen's KitchenCheck out Paula Deen’s Kitchen at Harrah’s Cherokee Casino.  If you are looking for a memorable meal that will make you wish you had more room in your belly and more time in your schedule, this is the only place you need to eat while you are in the Smokies.  Go in and try Paula Deen’s take on southern tradition.

Blowing Rock, NC

Blowing Rock may be the first tourist town in the Smokies.  After people got word of the beautiful area, this became a vacation spot with people camping, just to spend time in the mountains.  Now, Blowing Rock is the one of the premier resort cities on the North Carolina side of the Smokies.  Shopping, art galleries, culture, great food and skiing give you more than enough reasons to make Blowing Rock a stop on your mountain vacation.

 

The Cherokee called this area home until the European settlers came to this area.  The Scottish and the Irish felt home in this are at the top of the mountain, in the shadows of the Blue Ridge and Smoky Mountains.  During the late 19th century, Blowing Rock adopted tourism as their main industry.  Hotels began to be built as people touted the healthy atmosphere of the town.

In modern times, with the development of better roads and the introduction of mass produced automobiles, Blowing Rock thrived.  People love the history and the legends surrounding the area.  The resorts that are around the area bring in thousands of people and the people love to come back year after year.

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Bull Head Trail

For all you locals, the Bull Head Trail is probably one you’ve heard of before, and if you’ve been to Mount LeConte might have even hiked as you made your way back to civilization.

In all, it’s a 5.9 downhill hike. We’re starting you off at the summit of Mount LeConte and traveling downward toward the Rainbow Falls Trail junction to its intersection with the Old Sugarlands Trail. For wildflowers lookers or fall color seekers, this is a perfect hiking trail and one you’re sure to come back to with the changing seasons.

Starting out, you’ll find yourself at LeConte’s West Point at the intersection with the Rainbow Falls Trail. Many choose to hike up the Rainbow Falls Trail to reach the summit of Mount LeConte and take the Bull Head Trail back down the mountain.

As mentioned this is a wonderful wildflower hike whether you decide to go during the spring or summer. Bee-balms and trout-lilies are just a few of the seasonal blooms you’re sure to notice along the way. Views are just as good, especially at points where you get to gaze down at the West Prong of the Little Pigeon River.

You come to the Pulpit at mile 3.3 of the hike – a stone cairn built by the Civilian Conservation Corps. Not only can you stand on it and look out to a majestic view, 2 or 3 people can sit on if they wish. Many a Smokies hiker have stopped to eat or take a break at this point.

From there, you’ll swing left before starting the switchbacks. This is the area known as the head of the bull – its profile seen northward. A wild buffalo bull. Talk to someone who has hiked the area over the years and they might be able to show you the whole of the bull. Balsam Point being the bull’s shoulders, the crest of Mount LeConte its body, and the Sawteeth its tail.

Magnolias, hemlocks, sugar maples meet the hiker on the way down past the Pulpit. Rock overhangs are present on this part of the trail and can provide a bit of covering during a pop-up rain storm. But be wary of these overhangs during a lightning storm. From here it’s a near straight line to the Old Sugarlands Trail.

Alum Cave Bluffs Trail

The Alum Cave Bluffs Trail is one of the most traversed in the national park and for good reason. It’s by far the most popular route to Mount LeConte as you gain 2600 feet on the way to 6400 feet.

To reach the trailhead via the Sugarlands Visitor Center in Gatlinburg, drive 8.6 miles along Newfound Gap Road traveling east. There you’ll find the sign to the trail and two large parking areas, where a path leads to the beginning of a 2.3 mile hike to Alum Cave Bluff.

The hike itself is a 4.6 mile round-trip climb following by a descent back or 5.1 miles on to LeConte Lodge. Expect the hike to the bluffs to take about 2 and 1/2 hours. Allow for about 3 and 1/2 hours if you decide to go on to LeConte Lodge.

Arch rock is the point of interest along the trail and you’ll bear witness to nature’s majestic power during this 4.6 mile (round-trip) hike. Even better views can be found if you hike on to LeConte Lodge and Cliff Tops.

Just off the parking area, you come to the Alum Cave Bluff Trailhead which is followed on its side for a mile by the Alum Cave Creek. Arch Rock appears at mile 1.5. Here, a set of stone stairs marks your passage through one of the few natural arches inside the national park. Inspiration Point appears at the 1.8 mile mark, where a panoramic view of the area meets the hiker. It’s an overwhelming sight and if you’ve packed a camera this is one of the places to use it. Low shrubs come to dot the trail from here on, before you arrive at Alum Cave Bluff (mile 2.3). Don’t take Alum Cave on name alone. Rather than a cave, it’s black slate that juts out in the form of a ledge, covering the trail and giving the impression of a cave. Alum Cave’s name derives from the alum deposits found along its walls.

If you do decide to continue and hike on to LeConte Lodge, the trail curves and follows the ridge that forms the southern flank of Mount LeConte. You’ll eventually be joined on the left by the Rainbow Falls Trail – 200 yards from it’s finish at LeConte Lodge. LeConte Lodge consists of several wood-shingled cabins, two lodges, and a dining room. There is no electricity and water is pumped into holding tanks from a spring. Reservations can be made at LeConte Lodge by calling (865) 429-5704.

Deerpark Restaurant

dpr1One of my favorite places to eat, when I visit the Biltmore Estate is the Deerpark Resturant.  A trip to the Biltmore is not complete without good food and the Deerpark puts on a culinary show like you would not believe.  A buffet like no other, the Deerpark is something wholly different for the person looking for a great way to experience the opulence of a fine meal at the Biltmore.  Housed in a barn that was part of the original estate, you get to experience some history along with a good meal.

Let me set the scene:  you have purchased your entry into the Biltmore Estate and it is a glorious Sunday afternoon, around lunch time.  You and your family decide to go to the Deerpark, after a suggestion from the ticket office.  They call ahead for you and make a reservation for you.  You hop in the car and instead of stopping at the house, you continue through the beautiful grounds of the Biltmore Estate, following the signs, to the Deerpark.  From the time you pull into the parking lot you will feel that you are somewhere different.  You are at a barn that used to house some of the four legged residents of the estate.  The seating area is built around a central courtyard that at times has ice sculptures and can also be rented out for receptions throughout the year.

dpr2One of the staff members will escort you to your table and you will find that you are already experiencing the glory of the Vanderbillts. The table is laid out with beautiful stemware and silverware, cloth napkins and a fresh tablecloth.  They give you a brief rundown of the special of the day and then point you in the direction of the buffet. As you approach the tables of food you are going to realize very quickly that this is not your usual buffet.  No piles of over cooked food, no turines of processed soup, this is a gourmet buffet where the chefs of the Biltmore Estate get to experiment and dream.  Their dreams are edible, their experiments are delightful and the food the produce is amazing.  Fresh meats and vegetables prepared differently all the time sit side by side with field green salads and made to order omelettes.  And of course then there is the dessert table.  An entire table devoted to desserts.  From tartlets to pie to cake and cookies, the pastry staff at the Deerpark has been hard at work.

The Deerpark Restaurant is a place that everyone should experience at least once.  You need to make sure that you include it the next time that you go to the Biltmore.  Of course, there are also those people that make the Deerpark their restaurant of choice whenever they go to the Biltmore Estate.  When you are in Asheville you are going to want to spend some time at the Biltmore.  Make sure that you pick a good place to eat, pick the Deerpark.

Deerpark Restaurant
Biltmore Estate
One Lodge Street
Asheville, NC
Reservations – 828-225-6260